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The art of hamburgers
Menumental
June 25, 2008 2:31 PM
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Whether it was at the legendary Burger Shack, under the Golden Arches or in the Vellend backyard, I grew up on a steady diet of hamburgers. Now it's a once-a-year treat, so I make it count.

Here's a Canada Day guide to the perfect burger.

SACRED COWS

My burger recipe is pretty simple: beef and salt. This formula, however, requires top-quality beef from a reputable butcher who grinds it on site and uses animals that are naturally raised or organic. Cumbrae's (www.cumbraes.com) and The Healthy Butcher (www.thehealthybutcher.com) both fit the bill.

Unless you like your burger rare, avoid extra-lean beef. Lean or medium is best to ensure juicy results.

Count on six ounces of meat per burger and season aggressively with fine sea salt. Fry a mini patty to make sure you've got the seasoning right.

Form thick patties that are slightly bigger than your bun and make a concave depression in the centre. (This will counteract the burger's tendency to puff up when cooked.) It's best to make the burgers ahead of time so they're cold and easy to handle when you light up the 'cue.

FLIPPING BURGERS

Get your grill nice and hot, brush it clean and give the grate a quick wipe with a wad of paper towel dipped in vegetable oil. Cook your burgers, flipping once, until they reach your desired degree of doneness.

Keep an eye out for flareups, as they will impart an unpleasant scorched taste. Burger slapping and excessive flipping are verboten - you are basically wringing out flavour.

If it's pouring rain, pan-frying burgers is a good option. Seared in a heavy skillet over high heat, it forms a delicious brown crust that is unachievable on the grill.

Let the burgers rest for five minutes. This allows the juices to settle so they end up in your mouth and not on the plate.

NICE BUNS

Choosing the right bun is almost as important as the meat.

It should have a soft crust and a crumb that is not heavy, yet sturdy enough to handle being drenched in beefy goodness.

Harbord Bakery (115 Harbord St., 416-922-5767) makes an ideal hamburger bun; topped with sesame seeds, it's the perfect fit for a six-ounce patty. In addition to the source, they are also available at Pusateri's (www.pusateris.com).

KEEP IT SIMPLE

When it comes to dressing your burger, remember that less is more. Too many toppings and you've basically got a condiment sandwich.

You also want the accoutrements to compliment the beef rather than mask it. A few leaves of arugula, a slice of ripe tomato and a smear of Dijon are all you really need. Other worthy toppings include caramelized onions, aioli and homemade salsa.

Pickles bully beef and are best left on the side.

For a cheeseburger, go with a quality aged Canadian cheddar such as Jensen's organic three-year-old. Another dynamite choice is chevre noir, a cheddar-like goat's milk cheese from Quebec.


     
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